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bankroll needed------place $22 inside on the come out roll, no other bet at this time, $44 inside if 7 shows, 7 again, place $110 inside and double up from their, after first number hit on first time roll on this shooter you put a bet on the don't come (dc) $5, if next number hits you take down the place bet and put $10 on dc bet and now next roll lay $10 on dc, another place bet hit take down all place bets and continue to bet $10 on dc and not ever any odds except if dc bet hit 2nd time then you keep your profit and place single odds.
$22 inside regression, don't
Bet $22 inside. $5 each on the 5 and 9, $6 each on the 6
Take down the first two hits. Then make two don't come bets, one at a time, with the next two hits. Do not press any bets. Let them run until you lose.
REASON: First two numbers that you take down will show a small profit. For example. The shooter throws a 6, you take it down with a $7 win. Then the shooter throws an 8. You take that down with a $7 win. Profit on the $22 risked is $4. With the two remaining numbers still working you can build up the bets you took down with two don't come bets. Now you have a hedge.
One of the systems I use is to place bet $22
inside. When the table is choppy or cold, I split the $22 between place and
don't come bets. Variations of this style exist elsewhere. Here is how I played
Make a $6 place bet on both the six and eight right after the point is established. Then make a $5 don't come and another right after that. If you haven't had any yo's, etc while you were making the dc bets, you should have 2 $6 place bets and 2 $5 dc bets working. When one of the place bets hits, I take both place bets down and leave the dc's working for the life of the roll. If either or both of the dc's is a 4 or 10, I lay full odds.
4, 2 Doey-Don't
First, money management is the key. Remember
that if you play the game correctly you basically have a 50-50 bet. If you play
craps over time, you will be up $$ half the time, and down $$ half the time.
The key is to leave the table when you are up (with a profit) and to limit you
loses. No system matters unless you manage your money properly.
This system is ideal for the better that has a small bankroll -- like me.
First, you will bet both sides of the table -- the do and the don't -- but only in a 2 and 4 in a row sequence. Just make sure when you win on the don't side, that you keep it to yourself because a lot of the table just lost that roll.
When you walk up to the table wait at least a couple rolls to see how the table is playing. Ask other players how they're doing. Wait until the pass is either made or or beaten. At that point the system is simple. You bet two times in a row (at any $$ level you are comfortable with) following the pass and four times in a row for the don't pass -- rotating as the dice require. Example: a 4 is the point and another 4 is made -- so you bet one more time on the pass (for a total of 2 passes made in a row), followed by 4 don't bets. If however the next pass bet is won, you go back to 2 more pass bets.
Example: A don't pass bet is won. Your next bet is 3 more don't pass bets in a row. However the next pass is won, so you switch to 2 more pass bets.
Example: A don't pass is made. You win 2 more don't pass bets, but then are beaten with a pass bet. So you switch back to 1 more pass bet. If you win, you switch to 4 don't pass bets, etc.
Throw down some odds bets if you get ahead or want to lessen the house edge.
This is a good system when the table is choppy, going back and forth between hot and cold.
5 Count Variation
This is a variation of the 5 count, where
your bets are offset instead of equal.
Make a pass line or don't pass which ever suits table conditions or your style. In the case of a pass its $10 with $20 odds, for DP its a straight $30 bet.
After the point is set make a DC or come bet which ever is opposite of your line bet with the same amounts stated above. Then make another opposite bet then another. In 4 rolls you should have all your bets down. A pass a DC a COME and a DC or a DP a COME a DC and a COME. IF FUNDS ARE LIMITED PUT $5 AND $5 ODDS ON YOUR RIGHT BETS AND $10 ON YOUR DARK SIDE BETS. A quicker way of getting your bets down is to make 2 place bets [6and8] and DP and a DC .
With this method I usually win or break even rarely do I lose any serious money the best I have done is $1200 after 7 hours of play but I won 3 out of 4 bets all night and there were no hot rolls.
For more information on the 5 count, read Beat the Craps out of the Casinos by Frank Scoblete.
6 & 8 Regression/Progression with 4 and 10
Bypass the come out roll and wait for a point to be
Place the 6 and 8 for $18 each for a total of $36, regardless if the 6 or 8 is the point.
Hit #1: $18 on 6/8 pays $21. Take the 6 and 8 down to $12 each for a total of $24. You are at risk for $3.
Hit #2: $12 on 6/8 pays $14. Place [buy] the 4 and 10 for $5 each for a total of $10, regardless if the 4 or 10 is the point. Bring back $4. You are now up $1.
You now have $12 each on the 6 & 8 and $5 each on the 4 & 10 for a total of $34.
If the 4 or 10 hits, $5 pays $9. Add $1 and press the 4 and 10 to $10 each.
The house advantage on the 6/8 [place] is 1.52%.The house advantage on the 4/10 [buy] is 1.67% if the vig is collected on the win.
You have four place numbers covered and possibly a $1 profit or breaking even.
You have nothing to lose. Take back some profit/press your bets up.
After making a profit, place the 5 and 9.
Progression on 6/8: $12 - $24 - $30 - $42 - $66 - $90 - $120 - $180
Progression on 5/9: $5 - $10 - $25 - $35 - $60 - $75 - $100 - $150
Progression on 4/10: $5 - $10 - $25 - $50 - $75 - $100 - $150
Basic Don't Method revised
This method uses flat bets with no added odds, except on the don't pass when
you are making a don't come bet.
Here's how it works. You put $5 on the pass and don't pass lines (keep it there all the time), and the point thrown is 6. You lay $6 on the odds and place $5 in the don't come box. If the next roll is a 7, you would lose the $5 don't come, but win $5 on the don't pass, breaking even, but if the next roll is 10, you now have $6 odds on 6 on the don't pass and $5 on the don't come 10. Now you would now remove the odds bet on the don't pass.
By adding the odds bet to the don't pass when making a don't come bet, you are covering the 7 if it is thrown on the second roll (thus a short hedge). Now the $5 chip is at an advantage. I like to play a win progression and I parlay any win once so I double up the don't pass odds next time to cover the 7 again.
If I win good. If I lose I start over at the beginning. 2 in a row wins happen often on the Don't side. May as well use the casino winnings to extend the profit. I usually buy in for $200 or so and play for hours. Most tables are choppy anyway and I may as well be on the “Dark side”. Hot rollers rarely keep the dice for long. 3 point sets maybe
If I parlayed the $5 to $10 and the point is 4,6,8 or 10, I usually add a $1 hard way for a little more insurance.
You can adjust all the bets to whatever amount you are comfortable with putting out there. If it takes off you win a lot, if it doesn't you're not out very much. A good way to play
I have just thought of this system out of the blue. Let me
note that this is not a get rich quick scheme, it is meant to get units slowly
over a period of time, slowly but surely. (so it's supposed to, don't know if it
It is a simple cancellation with a twist...
You will start out placing 2 bets and always 2 bets, you will have a bet on ANY CRAPS, and THE FIELD (I know they are bad bets)
Now, lets talk about when you win and lose and what you do...
When you lose on a 7,8,6, or 5, you will place a 1 down to
the left, and increase the right by one number.
When you win on a 4, 9, or 10, you of course cancel the first and last (far left and far right numbers)
When you win on a 2,3,11,or 12, you will first cancel the first and last numbers, but then you will have 7 extra units to "shave with" (8 extra units to shave with if it is a 2 or 12 (could be 9 if you are at a casino with 3X on 2 and 12) which means you will start from right to left and take away 1 number per number for 6 numbers (or you can do it for 2 numbers or 3, up to you)
When you start placing bets, you will put 2 down on the field and 1 on ANY CRAPS, you will always place an extra unit down on the field so that if it wins, it cancels out the unit put down on the ANY CRAPS (that is why when you lose you add a single number 1 to the left...)
Note: to make things easier to read, when you have a bunch of cluttered ones, it is recommended you put them into 2's, 3's, 4's or whatever is easier for you to see... you must ALWAYS HAVE THE ONES AT THE LEFT, never a 2 or 3 or 4 or any other number, if it is a 2 or 3, just break it down into 3 ones.
Here is a sample game...
Number that came out, what was put on paper
5 1,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11 <----example of making it easier to read 1,1,1,1,2,2,4,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11 the reason the four is before the 3 is because it is going to be used for breaking down into singles (1's) and of course you can shave it if you get to that point.
11 1,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,2,3,(3,4,5,6,7,8,9) <------- shaved off 7 numbers from 4,5,6,7,8,9,10 to 3,4,5,6,7,8,9 (keeps bets a little lower..)
Skipping ahead to the middle (the most down ever was 80 units in this particular session)
Skipping down towards the end of session
12 1,1,2 (we get to shave off 8 here, but we only have 4, so we make 4 units profit +4)
Now I do not know how many throws per hour they do in craps, but the session was a total of 41 thrown dice...
This is to keep your bets low. now lets say you have 1,1,1,2,3,4 on your paper ok and a 3 comes up. well you just won 6 units from the field and you won 7 units from the ANY. now it will look like so. 1,1,1,2,3,4 (with considering you won 6 units and 7) so lets start canceling. first you get rid of the far right and the far left, so it looks like this 1,1,2,3 (the 1 and 4 were cancelled) now we want to lower the bets, so we have 1,1,2,3 so lets "shave" take 2 away from the 3 and 2 away from the 2 and also take away a 1 from the sequence. now you have 1,2 you shaved the numbers down from the original 1,1,2,3 (you used 3 +2 +1 = 6 of the 7 units made, so you can keep the extra unit in your pocket).
Another example of shaving.
Lets say you have a 1,1,1,1,1,1,2,3,4,5,6,7 now a 3 wins. first of all you take the first and last number away so it looks like 1,1,1,1,1,2,3,4,5,6 now you have 7 numbers to shave, so lets shave from right to left (always should to keep bets low) so you shave the 6 to a 5, the 5 to a 4, the 3 to a 2, the 2 to a 1 and take away a 1. now you used 6 of the 7 shaves and it looks like so. 1,1,1,1,2,3,4,5. you can use the extra left over shaving unit to either make the 5 a 4 or you can keep it as a unit profit. if you keep it as a unit profit, note it on your paper. (I would go ahead and shave the 5 to a 4 making the new paper numbers 1,1,1,1,2,3,4,4 it is to keep bets minimal).
I hope you get an idea of what this system is like... Scott
Cat & Mouse
I place a $10.00 DP bet, and no matter what
point is made, lay single odds. I then place 6&8 for $12.00 and 5&9 for $10.00
for 1 roll only or how ever I feel at the time. If it hits I might press it or
take it down, then if a lot of numbers are being thrown I put the place bets up
again. I play however I feel the dice is rolling. It is fun to play cat & mouse
with the lucky 7, as everybody 7's out sooner or later, so both sides are
covered. A early 7 out is covered, and a lot of numbers = a lot of money.
Come out hedge
I've been playing this way for a while now
and what I'm going to describe next is good only for making a small profit ($100
to $250 depending on the situation).
I always watch the tables to see if they seem cold or hot then I bet accordingly. I start with either the pass line and 2 come bets or don't pass with 2 don't come bets.
If table is cold start by making a don't pass and 2 don't come bets. Take full odds if those points are either 4, 5, 9 10 and no odds on 6 and 8. (its better on the long run). As soon as you have the three "don't" points established start making 3 come bets and take full odds if those points are 5, 6, 8, 9, and no odds on 4 and 10.
The reason why you make the 3 come points after the don'ts is that if you have a semi long run or a long run, you'll actually end up still making a little bit of money, even if losing all don't points or lose very little depending on what don't points you lost.
Now if the run is pretty short you end up winning either all don't points and lose either one or at worst 2 come points and win your come field bet too, or maybe even hit one or two come bets and then seven out for a little bit of profit on the come points and win all the don't points.
The key here is that if you lose all the don't come points just wait until the shooter finishes off hopefully hitting all your come bets too. DO NOT START MAKING ANY NEW COME OR DON'T COME BETS.
Now if the table is mild or hot, do the reverse of above. Start with a pass line bet with odds and 2 come bets and then 3 don't come bets, taking odds as above.
If starting with pass line and 2 come bets, take full odds if numbers are 5, 6,8, 9 and no odds on 4 and 10. Over the long run it is better not taking odds on 4 and 10, since they are the hardest to hit, even once. As you are making those points if you get hit on any of the come points or pass keep making come and pass line until you have a total of 3 standing. This way you are taking advantage of the run and make a little bit of profit. If while you are making those points you have gotten hit 3 times on either the come bets or the line, you can make the decision to actually just stop, and don't make any don't come bets and take the little profit and hope for another 1 or 2 hits on your come bets before seven out, or make 3 don't come bets or 1 don't pass and 2 don't come depending on situation and take full odds on 4, 5, 9, 10 and no odds on 6 and 8.
What you are really hoping for here is to win another 1 or 2 hits on the come then you have a don't come sitting on same point that you just made a profit on and it would have to get hit again to get it killed and actually break even on that point since you made the come before. This way you basically protect your come bets from mid short rolls where repeats are not happening or maybe one before sevening out and longer rolls will hit your come points hopefully all of them and then hopefully sevening out before killing all don't points. If this happens then you would just break even on the roll or you could take odds on the don'ts down and actually still make a little profit (your decision).
What you are trying to accomplish is get the 3 come points hit with maybe some repeats and then seven out before getting killed on all the don't points so you can have a profit from the don'ts also. Again the key is if you lose all the don'ts. DO NOT START OVER TAKE THE LITTLE LOSS AND WAIT FOR FINISH.
And for the closing: Just to assure the profit as soon as you have a profit and you will many times only after one roll take it and run because this is for short time only. If you decide to keep playing you will get into the rolls when you will lose a little bit every roll and go down steadily not by much but "steadily" and your profits will evaporate.
This way of playing gave me very nice winning streaks but I walked away even after only 100 dollars profit. My best winning streak is almost 3 weeks without a loss. Also if you happened to have a small loss its your call to try to make it back or leave it as it is ( my losing limit is $150 at a $5 table).
The downside to this is the very short rolls, 1 or 2 numbers before sevening out which will allow to make the come bets but no hits would occur or no chance to take any don't come bets that would level up the come bets. Also there has been situations when the don't come bets would repeat but not the come bets and that is the worst situation. If this would happened on the table I would take the odds down on all my come bets if I wouldn't get hit on any of the come bets within about 6 or 7 rolls (the chance of sevening out would increase and the damage would be twice as bad since losing the don'ts with odds and the come also
when sevening out )
This is about all of it and like I said before this way should be played only for 1 or 2 entire rolls unless the rolls are very short and its usually pretty good for getting a little bit ahead on a short run. So take the money and ruuunnnnnn!!!!!!!!
Bet $5 on the pass line. Insure the bet with a $5 whirl (world)
If the shooter throws 11 you get $11 for the whirl and $5 for the pass line.
If the shooter throws a 3 you get $11 from the whirl which replaces your pass line. Put $5 in your rack and bet a $1 yo
Throwing a 2 or 12 get $26. 7 is a push on the whirl and pays $ on the pass line.
You loose the whirl when the point is established.
Do the same to cover the come bets. If the shooter sevens out, leave the whirl bet out there and press it $5 to double the payoff.
This is good for shooters that throw a lot of craps.
Don't , 5 Count
1. Come out roll on any new shooter - $10 on
A. If shooter throws 2,3,or12 - do same bet.
B. If shooter throws any point number - go to step 2.
C. If shooter throws a 7 or 11 do not replace the bet, but immediately start the Captain's 5-count system - starting with the next throw of the dice. If shooter gets past the 5-count, place a come or pass bet and take single odds. Place another come bet on the next roll and place single odds. Continue to keep 2 come bets with single odds on the table for as long as the shooter holds the dice. Obviously, if the shooter keeps making the numbers then you can press the odds up or make additional come bets. If the shooter 7's out then start step 1 all over again.
2. Place a $5 don't come bet.
A. If the shooter 7's out - you won $5 from DP bet - go back to step 1.
B. If the shooter rolls 11 - do not replace DC bet.
C. If the shooter rolls 2,3 take winnings and repeat bet; if 12 then same bet.
D. If the shooter rolls any point number - go to step 3.
3. Do not make any more bets until:
A. Shooter seven's out - you won $15 - go back to step 1.
B. Shooter kills both of your bets - DP and DC. If you no longer have any bets on the table, immediately begin the Captain's 5-count. Employ the same method of betting as I described in step 1, letter C.
This method seems to have quite a few safeguards against 1 shooter killing your bankroll on DP by not allowing yourself to lose more than 1 bet per shooter to a "natural" on the come out. It also makes sure that if a hot roll develops - you are on the right side of the table.
Let me know what you guys think, thanks, Larry
Don't, Place bet
the point is established...
1. $81 Don't Come
2a. If the Don't Come point is: 4, 5, 9, OR 10....Place $54 on all numbers ($10 on
4,5,9, or 10 and $12 on 6 & 8).
2b. If the Don't Come Point is 6 OR 8...............Place $52 on all numbers ($10 on
4,5,9, 10 and $12 on 6 or 8).
2c. Wager $5 on all the Hard numbers.
If any soft number is rolled, obviously the player has the option to replace the lost wager on the Hard,
Press any number,
Or rack the winnings.
The second method:
After the point is established...
1. $81 Don't Come
Choose one of the following numbers for the next roll:
4 OR 10 6 OR 8
2a. Place...............$25 Place.....$36
2b. Hard $45 Hard......$38
I have numerous methods printed and illuminated on approximately 3 1/4" wide X 3 3/4" height plastic. Any questions please ask. Robersabel@aol.com
Do and Don't Progression
You first bet $5 on don't pass. If you lose,
you bet the pass line for $15. If you lose again, you bet the don't pass for
$35. If you lose for a 3rd time, you bet the pass for $75. If you lose
again (4 times in a row), you bet the don't pass for $155. If you lose a
5th time in a row, you bet the pass for $355. If you lose all 6 times in a
row, the recommended option is "walk away". :)
However, every time you hit a winner, you start with step 1 again (e.g. $5 bet on the don't pass).
Basically, the way to remember it is don't-do-don't-do-don't-do for 5, 15, 35, 75, 155, 315.
In my reasoning of this system, I think it may be a decent play. The reason being is that it takes care of hot and cold, choppy tables since the sequence of bets alternates between do and don't. And I think that's the key to the system (as opposed to the martingale, where you consistently bet one way). Also, depending on what step of the system you win on, you always win money, ideally. The only way you would lose is if the table went the opposite of what you bet for 6 straight rolls/points...
Keith from New Orleans
Do and Don't chase
I start play after a 7 out.
$5.00 Doey/Don't Lay $15.00 against the point go up on two more numbers, same
way, Come and Don't Come,( three numbers total).
If there are no repeats when 7 comes take your money and start over.
When and only when, a shooter repeats a number we reverse our odds bet and go to the right side and take the odds.
If the repeat is one of our numbers we only take the odds on the remaining two numbers.
If the shooter has a roll we take odds on three numbers after 2 wins.
Do and Don't DC
Follow the trend
I bet which ever way the last decision went -
in order to take advantage of any streaks.
On the do side, I play $30 each on the 6/8 and $15 each on the 5/9. I regress after the first hit on any number.
If the six or eight hit I regress to $34 inside - with $12 each on the 6/8 and $5 each on the 5/9.
If the 5/9 hit first I regress to $22 inside.
After the second hit I generally turn them off until we get past the five count - then turn them back on and start single unit pressing.
When I get to five units on everything I regress to $44 inside, the do a two unit press up to either $88 or $110 in - then regress again down to $22 in or come down on everything.
On the don't side, I play $10 on the DP. Lay single odds and follow with a $10 DC. Continuing this process until I get up on a 4 or 10. Then I take down all of my lay odds and move them to the 4 or 10 - generally laying 10X odds and waiting for a decision.
Using this style of play I leave the table "winners" a little over 75% of the time ... with an average win in the $100 range. Being willing to accept a short session and a small win is the key to long life and happiness with the dice.
Follow the trend 2
I have been playing the tables for over 25 years now and never have I even heard of a person playing like me. Everyone I recommend it to tells me either I'm clairvoyant or just an old screwball. Maybe so, but I've managed to chip away at the casinos for that length of time with real good results. I'm not a heavy better, only when I'm ahead with the house's money. Highest I bet are $220 inside and $200 Don't pass and I quit when I'm ahead.....PERIOD. I start out with $300, no more, and play with that until I win or lose. Winning, I press all my bets, losing I take the $300 as a loss and go. NO EXCEPTIONS! Over the years I have seen many a person lose thousands at a table and just dig down for more and lose that too. They say that they have a system. Apparently it didn't work! I've seen all kinds of systems in my time and the more I play, the more I see the losses.
Now to me. To be honest, I have no system. But I have one thing the losers do not have. Common sense. I play with and against the dice, simple as that. When the numbers are clicking off I place bet only! No pass line or come bets. Again only the inside numbers. I run them out until the last, and then the 7. Next bet is a don't pass, and I keep on going back and forth of which I call myself a flip flopper. Whichever way the dice go, there go I. This play has been very good to me . I do not buy in for $100 and expect to win $1000. It can happen, but it's RARE.
I Read the table and don't make stupid bets. I always play the odds and especially the streaks . It's pretty simple in a way. Play the
streaks. ALWAYS play the odds. When the numbers are running, play them. When the 7's are running, play them. When the hardways are running, play them . Do not put down a bet until the table tells you to and don't break the rule. Throw hunches out the window where they belong.
Always keep your head about you and bet the odds and streaks in your mind. You won't make a fortune at it, but I can guarantee that you'll win a lot more times than you'd lose. Hope I have helped someone.
Remember: To not know the odds...is fatal.
John in Charlotte, NC email@example.com
Heaven help me Hit & run
OK here goes, you put $300 on the don't
pass and pass lines ($150 each) $25 on the C&E, total $325. Wait for come
out roll. Say its a 5, now you put $300 each on the 6,8,9 and $1800 on the
lay don't pass for a total of $3,025. If 6,8,9 come out you win whatever odds
are and take every thing down. If 7 comes out you lose $900 on place bets & your
$25 c&e for a total of $925. You win $1800 less odds around $800 for a few
Now if on the 2nd roll they make their point you lose $1800 but got all bets working for another roll.
This system works well, rarely they come right back with the point. I can't afford to bet at that level. I try it with $30 instead of $300, but after a roll you win $45 instead of $450 in 5 minutes work. Get it?
Sometimes I play longer and take a chance to get a few numbers more, but mostly I play for one win. A quick $450 or $800.
Hundred Dollar Ho down mix
I usually do an "Anything but 7" with a bit
more $$$ but make it a one-roll only bet. I have one you may like. Good for
ice-cold to medium-warm tables. Which the tables are most of the time. While
this can be done with any amount, I'll start with the minimum.
Lay the 4 & 10 for $50 each and Place $32 across.
Have everything working on the come-out. Take 2 wins and go off.
This bet pays on all box numbers and the 7 is your friend. Yo's and crap numbers can't hurt you.
Variation: Again, on for the come-out. Keep it working until the first 4 or 10 hit and then go off. Double the number you just lost (you may want to add $10 to it so you will be even after paying the vig) and put it back on for the next come-out. Or, everything same as above and wait till the shooter hits the 4 or 10 one more time. Then you are through with this shooter. Double-up as above.
I use it a lot in the casinos. If the table has a hot shooter, don't put up the Lay bet. S/he is sure to hit the 4/10, esp. if the shooter is a dice-setter/RR. In fact that would be a time to use your Hundred Dollar ho-down, fer sure!
Run that on your sim first. You will be impressed with the results.
If you have the bankroll and want to make money faster, double up the bet to $100 each on the Lay and Place $64 across. My first time out with it I actually placed the Lay for $700 ea, and $640 across. My only mistake was playing at a $2k limit table and got banged really hard by a hot shooter on the lay numbers. I max'd out and it took a while to get back to even.
If you bet big, go to a $5k table - plan ahead and learn from my mistake. <g>
I've only been playing for a year, but I
understand the statistics of the game very well. I just laugh at guys around the
table with huge bankrolls, make huge bets, yet don't really understand what
they're doing. Usually they lose, but when they win they think that they are so
smart, while they were simply lucky as opposed to logical.
Speaking of logical, I have come up with a system that requires little of my money, lots of the casino money, and a big chance of winning. You may have something similar sent in by someone else. I think this system is as logical as you could get.
At a $10 table. I would bet $15 on the Don't Pass, with a dollar yo and a $4 big red. I know big red is a bad bet, but it is a small price to stay in the game. The Don't Pass bet though is also just a hedge for my future bets. I would place the 6 and 8 after the point. If the either the 6 or 8 is point, then place the one that isn't, along with the hotter 5 or 9. With these 2 numbers I make a $10 come bet. At this point. I have $49 on the table, but at worst, the most I can lose is the $15 if the shooter makes his point. If the shooter craps out right now I'm up a buck. Obviously this is not the ideal situation but at least I'm treading water for now.
I hope that the come bet lands on 6 or 8, because then I win $14, yet keep it up as odds on my come bet. I think this is cool cuz I'm using the casinos money as odds. If it's a hit, I can either keep my winnings, press, or up a unit. No matter what though if the shooter were to crap out at this point, the worst I could do is lose $19 (not including the coming out). What this means, is all I really need is a short streak to produce winnings.
If the come bet lands on 5, I have the 5,6,8 covered. I could drop another come bet and play the field, and I would have every single number covered on the table with not a very large risk. Obviously I could play the horn at this point as well.
I believe that the most important thing about winning is not losing. This system allows me not to lose big, ever. I tread water until the table turns in my favor. I then use the casinos money to press my bets and hopefully win some cash. Do you see where I am coming from?
This method of winning is deliberate, but at least I have prevented losing. What do you think? I think I am a winner but it certainly takes a while. Better than losing quickly though.
Thank you for your time. Michael.
Milt's Don't method
Bet $10 on the don' t pass. 7 or 11 you lose,
wait for next shooter.
Bet $10 on the don't pass. If point is 4,5,9,10 then place the 6 and 8 for $6 each.
If 6 or 8 is rolled, collect the $7 and come down off the 6 and 8.
You would make $7 with $10 still on don't pass, hoping for a 7 (most likely to be rolled). A win on don't is 10 more dollars for a total win of $17
Bet $10 on don't pass. If 6 or 8 is the point, place 6 and 8 with $6 each.
If 6 is point and rolled make you win $7 on the 6 and lose your $10 don't pass. Come down off your place bets.
Total lose $3.
The seven and 11 hurts on the come out. If so, WAIT for next shooter
If a 6 or 8 is the point - 20 odds, lay the 4 for 82, 15 on the 5, 18 on the opposite of the 6 or 8, 10 hard 4, and 10 in the field.
Now, there are 9 ways to lose:
1. 7 - lose $33
2. soft 4 - lose $82 (hard 4 and field are a wash)
3. hard 4 - lose $2
The gamble here is the soft 4. you have a ton of action on every number resulting in a minimum of a $10 win.
I usually take 3 or 4 hits, then regress to 10 odds and 5 on the 5, 6 on the opposite 6 or 8 then progress from there upon additional hits.
If a 5 or 9 is the point - lay 30 odds on the don't bet and put 20 in the come. you can throw a dollar Yo to hedge the don't come bet, but I usually don't as a 2 or 3 will payoff $20 and after a few hours this should even out and/ or be in your favor.
Now if a 7 hits its a wash, you lose your don't come, but you win the odds.
If a 6 or 8 is the don't come point, i will hedge 12 or 18 on that number and wait for the result. 12 will risk 6 dollars to win 8 with the odds in your favor. 18, you either win 1 or win 2 - no lose situation.
If 4 or 10 is the point - if table is hot I will lay 40 or 80 on the 4 or 10 and place 5, 6, and 8 for either 12 or 18(10 or 15 on the 5), 5 or 10 hard way on the point and 5 or 10 in the field. take several hits then down.
I'm using the don't pass odds as a hedge vs. the 7, the hard way as a hedge vs. the point, and I have all the numbers working for me.
If table is cold - will lay odds on the point and try and establish 2 don't come points and hedge on those points and wait for a decision.
You can adapt this system to both cold and hot tables. by hedging, you can minimize your risk to pretty much 2 numbers out of 36/ although when that soft 4 hits - it really sucks. hope my system works for you and/ or gives you some ideas.
Paul J. Aust
One roll vulnerability method
I must give my wife, Isabel all the
credit for this letter. It all began when I played roulette one day,
and the color black came up nine times in a roll. I was betting the
Martingale system on red. That was the last time I played that game.
My wife enjoyed craps, so I joined her. No matter what wager I placed on the table, I was shot down by the "7." I was determined to find a better way to decrease my odds.
I sat down at the kitchen table many hours, until I discovered what was there from the beginning of craps...the "H" word, Hedge, allowing the one roll vulnerability method.
I prefer to place the initial wager after the point has been established. However, one may choose the opposite, and wager DP. The following is a sample:
First roll after the point is established.
Make the following wagers:
First roll after the wagers are placed on the table:
The odds of a "7"? Six 7s out of thirty-six or 5 to 1 odds that "7" will show its head. If
the "7" is not rolled, the player is guaranteed not to lose.
If the wager(s) survive, the player has a variety of avenues to take.
If the DC number is:
4 or 10 5 or 9 6 or 8
P $715 P $835 P $930
remaining five numbers
P 4 & 10...$45
As stated there are a number of avenues to choose after the first roll, and the wager(s) survive. No matter the choice, the player is guaranteed not to lose. I have laminated the methods for guidance, ranging from $140 to $188,152.
One Roll vulnerability method by buying
I have discovered an increase of profit by buying the 4 OR 10
and/or 5 OR 9. B is Buy, C is Cost P is Place, H is Hard.
This action will be after the DC point is established. Under the 4 OR 10, the wager is Buy $680 will cost $34 if rolled and the same time, wager the Hard number $216. If the 5 OR 9 is the DC point, the wager below the 5 OR 9 applies as well as the 6 OR 8. Whatever is below applies.
If the DC wager survives...guaranteed not to lose.
At the DC wager $1000 plateau, there are numerous avenues to choose from, and the one roll vulnerability method still applies.
I have prepared methods ranging from $140 to $188,152 risk on approximately 3 1/2" X 3 3/4" paper illuminated.
$140 brings maximum of $210.
$188,152 brings maximum of $308,732.
Obviously, there are less returns as well with the one roll risk.
I have submitted the one roll vulnerability previously, and it is posted in your web site, but is Place Only after the DC point is established.
Attached is one of the $1000 methods.
Best Regards, Robersabel@aol.com
This method involves team work. Play the line
only. You make a $10 pass with $20 odds and your partner makes a $30 DP.
If the DP wins it is increased to $40 and the pass is regressed to $5 with $10
odds. If the DP wins again the pass is reduced to $5 no odds and the DP is
bumped to $50.
Then on you both bet DP until the pass wins. If the game goes the other way, The pass is bumped up to $15 with $30 odds, Then $20 with $40 odds while the DP is regressed $10 at a time. 3 wins on the pass and you both start betting pass. In this manner you are always winning something and are set up to ride a trend.
Pass Line bet with at least one Come Bet (taking double odds).
Continue making Come Bets until you have either the 6 or 8 working for you. For
example, if the point is 6 or 8 then make only one Come Bet. If the point is
4,5,9,10 continue making Come Bets until the 6 or 8 is established.
After you have at least 2 numbers working (one of which being the 6/8), make three Don't Come bets laying double odds, and see what happens.
If the shooter makes the point, make only one Pass Line bet and hope for a natural on the Come Out. Make no more Come/DC bets until you have nothing working, then start over again.
Wait until point is established.
Place 2 units on 6 and 8 and 1 unit on Field. ( 5 is left out to reduce too much spread)
Every roll pays 1 unit, danger is 7. There are 2 ways to go around it-
a) play only 2 rolls after the point is established. Then remove all the bets for the life of that roll.
b) to make a lay bet of 10 units on the 4 or 10 if the point is 6 or 8. This lay bet has to be placed on 4,5,9, or 10 if 6 or 8 is the point.
All the bets must be removed after 2 rolls. (Or may run for the life of the roll. If run for the rest of the roll, there may be a danger of shooter making the point and loosing that lay bet of 10 units.)